Oregon, Washington and Alaska; Sights and Scenes for the Tourist (2024)

LIST OF AGENTS.

ALBANY, N.Y.—23 Maiden Lane—J.D.TENBROECK. Trav. Pass. Agt.
BOSTON, MASS.—290 Washington St.—W.S. CONDELL,New England Freight and Passenger Agent.
J.S. SMITH, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E.M. NEWBEGIN, Traveling Freight and PassengerAgent.
A.P. MASSEY, Passenger and Freight Solicitor.
BUFFALO, N.Y.—40½ Exchanges St.—S.A.HUTCHISON, Trav. Pass. Agt.
BUTTE, MONT.—Corner Main and Broadway—GeneralAgt.
CHEYENNE, WYO.—C.W. SWEET, Freight and TicketAgent.
CHICAGO, ILL.—191 South Clark St.—W.H. KNIGHT,Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.
T.W. YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.
W.T. HOLLY, City Passenger Agent.
ALFRED MORTESSEN & CO., European ImmigrationAgts., 140 Kinzie St.
CINCINNATI, OHIO—56 West 4th St.—J.D. WELSH,Gen'l Agt. P. and F. Dep'ts.
H.C. SMITH, Traveling Freight and Passenger Agent.
CLEVELAND, OHIO—Kennard House.—A.G. SHEARMAN,T. F. and P. Agt.
COLORADO SPRINGS, COLO.—E.D. BAXTER, Gen'l Agt D., T.& Ft. W. R.R.
COLUMBUS, OHIO—N.W. Cor. Gay and High Sts.—T.C.HIRST, Trav. Pass. Agt.
COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA—506 First Ave.—A.J.MANDERSON, General Agt.
R.W. CHAMBERLAIN, Passenger Agent, Transfer Depot.
J.W. MAYNARD, Ticket Agent, Transfer Depot.
A.T. ELWELL, City Ticket Agent, 507 Broadway.
DALLAS, TEX.—H.M. DE HART, General Agent D., T. &Ft. W. R.R.
DENVER, COLO.—1703 Larimer St.—F.I. SMITH,Gen'l Agt. D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.
GEO. ADY, General Passenger Agent, Colo. Div. and D.,T. & Ft. W. R.R.
F.B. SEMPLE, Ass't Gen'l Pass. Agt, Colo. Div. and D.,T. & Ft. W. R.R.
C.H. TITUS, Traveling Passenger Agent.
R.P.M. KIMBALL, City Ticket Agent.
DES MOINES, IOWA—218 4th St.—E.M. FORD,Traveling Passenger Agent.
DETROIT, MICH.—62 Griswold St.—D.W. JOHNSTON,Michigan Pass. Agt.
HELENA, MONT.—2 North Main St.—A.E. VEAZIE,City Ticket Agent.
INDIANAPOLIS, IND.—Room 3 Jackson Place.—H.O.WEBB, Traveling Passenger Agent.
KANSAS CITY, MO.—9th and Broadway.—J.B.FRAWLEY, Div. Pass. Agt.
J.B. REESE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
F.S. HAACKE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
H.K. PROUDFIT, City Passenger Agent.
T.A. SHAW, Ticket Agent, 1038 Union Ave.
A.W. MILLSPAUGH, Ticket Agent, Union Depot.
C.A. WHITTIER, City Ticket Agent, 528 Main St.
LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND—23 Water St.—S. STAMFORDPARRY, General European Agent.
LONDON, ENGLAND—THOS. COOK & SONS, EuropeanPassenger Agents, Ludgate Circus.
LOS ANGELES, CAL.—51 North Spring St.—JOHNCLARK, Agt. Pass. Dep't.
A.J. HECHTMAN, Agent Freight Department.
LOUISVILLE, KY.—346 West Main St.—N. HAIGHT,Traveling Pass. Agent.
NEW ORLEANS, LA.—45 St. Charles St.—C.B. SMITH,General Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.
D.M. REA, Traveling Agent D., T. & Ft. W. R.R.
NEW YORK CITY—287 Broadway—R. TENBROECK,General Eastern Agent.
J.F. WILEY, Passenger Agent.
F.R. SEAMAN, City Passenger Agent.
OGDEN, UTAH—Union Depot—C.A. HENRY, TicketAgent.
C.E. INGALLS, Traveling Passenger Agent.
OLYMPIA, WASH.—2d St. Wharf.—J.C. PERCIVAL,Ticket Agent.
OMAHA, NEB.—9th and Farnam Sts.—M.J. GREEVY,Trav. Pass. Agt.
HARRY P. DEUEL, City Passenger and Ticket Agent, 1302Farnam St.
J.K. CHAMBERS, Depot Ticket Agent, 10th and MareySts.
PHILADELPHIA, PA.—133 South 4th St.—D.E.BURLEY, Trav. Pass. Agt.
L.T. FOWLER, Traveling Freight Agent.
PITTSBURG, PA.—400 Wood St.—H.E. PASSAVANT, T.F. and P. A.
THOS. S. SPEAR, Traveling Freight and PassengerAgent.
PORTLAND, ORE.—Cor. 3d and Oak Sts.—T.W. LEE,Gen'l Passenger Agent, Pacific Div.
A.L. MAXWELL, General Agent Traffic Department.
HARRY YOUNG, Traveling Passenger Agent.
GEO. S. TAYLOR, City Ticket Agent. Cor. 1st and OakSts.
PORT TOWNSEND, WASH.—Union Wharf—H.L. TIBBALS,Jr., Ticket Agt.
PUEBLO, COLO.—E.R. HARDING, General Agent D., T.& Ft. W. R.R.
ST. JOSEPH, MO.—F.L. LYNDE, General Pass. Agent, St.J. & G.I. R.R. Div.
W.P. ROBINSON, Jr., General Freight Agent, St. J.& G.I. R.R. Div.
ST. LOUIS, MO.—213 North 4th St.—J.F. AGLAR,Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep't.
E.R. TUTTLE, Traveling Passenger Agent.
E.S. WILLIAMS, City Passenger Agent.
C.C. KNIGHT, Freight Contracting Agent.
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH—201 Main St.—J.V. PARKER,Assistant General Freight and Passenger Agent, Mountain Div.
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.—1 Montgomery St.—W.H.HURLBURT, Assistant General Passenger Agent, Mo. Riv. Div.
S.W. ECCLES, General Agent Freight Department.
C.L. HANNA, Traveling Passenger Agent.
H. FRODSHAM, Passenger Agent.
J.F. FUGAZI, Italian Emigrant Agent, 5 MontgomeryAve.
SEATTLE, WASH.—A.C. MARTIN, City Ticket Agent.
O.F. BRIGGS, Ticket Agent, Dock.
SIOUX CITY, IOWA—513 Fourth St.—D.M. COLLINS,General Agent.
GEO. E. ABBOT, City Ticket Agent.
SPOKANE FALLS, WASH.—108 Riverside Ave.—PERRYGRIFFIN, Passenger and Ticket Agent.
TACOMA, WASH.—901 Pacific Ave.—E.E. ELLIS,Gen'l Agt. F. and P. Dep'ts.
TRINIDAD, COLO.—G.M. JACOBS, General Agent D., T.& Ft. W. R.R.
VICTORIA, B.C.—100 Government St.—G.A. COOPER,Ticket Agent.
WHATCOM, WASH.—J.W. ALTON, Gen'l Agent Freight andPass. Dep'ts.

J.A.S. REED, General TravelingAgent, 191 South Clark St., CHICAGO.
ALBERT WOODco*ck, General Land Commissioner, OMAHA,NEB.

The Private Hotel, Dining, Hunting and Sleeping Cars of thePullman Company will accommodate from 12 to 18 persons, allowing afull bed to each, and are fitted with such modern conveniences asprivate, observation and smoking rooms, folding beds, recliningchairs, buffets and kitchens. They are "just the thing" fortourists, theatrical companies, sportsmen, and private parties. TheHunting Cars have special conveniences, being provided withdog-kennels, gun-racks, fishing-tackle, etc. These cars can bechartered at following rates per diem (the time being reckoned fromdate of departure until return of same, unless otherwise arrangedwith the Pullman Company):

Ten Days or over, $5.00 per day less than above. Hotel, Buffet,or Sleeping Cars can also be chartered for continuous trips withoutlay-over between points where extra cars are furnished (cars to begiven up at destination), as follows:

For each additional berth rate of 50 cents, car rate will beincreased $10.00.

Above rates include service of polite and skillful attendants.The commissariat will also be furnished if desired. Such charteredcars must contain not less than 15 persons holding full first-classtickets, and another full fare ticket will be required for eachadditional passenger over 15. If chartered "per diem" cars aregiven up en route, chartering party must arrange for returnto original starting point free, or pay amount of freight necessaryfor return thereto. Diagrams showing interior of these cars can behad of any agent of the Company.

PULLMAN DINING CARS

are attached to the Council Bluffs and Denver VestibuledExpress, daily between Council Bluffs and Denver, and to "TheLimited Fast Mail," running daily between Council Bluffs andPortland, Ore.

MEALS.

All trains, except those specified above (under head of PullmanDining Cars), stop at regular eating stations, where first-classmeals are furnished, under the direct supervision of this Company,by the Pacific Hotel Company. Neat and tidy lunch counters are alsoto be found at these stations.

BUFFET SERVICE.

Particular attention is called to the fine Buffet Serviceoffered by the Union Pacific System to its patrons. Pullman PalaceBuffet Sleepers now run on trains Nos. 1, 2, 201, and 202.

SIGHTS AND SCENES IN
OREGON, WASHINGTON AND ALASKA.

Oregon is a word derived from the Spanish, and means "wildthyme," the early explorers finding that herb growing there ingreat profusion. So far as we have any record Oregon seems to havebeen first visited by white men in 1775; Captain Cook coasted downits shores in 1778. Captain Gray, commanding the ship "Columbia,"of Boston, Mass., discovered the noble river in 1791, which henamed after his ship. Astoria was founded in 1811; immigration wasin full tide in 1839; Territorial organization was effected in1848, and Oregon became a State on 14th February, 1859. It has anarea of 96,000 square miles, and is 350 miles long by 275 mileswide. There are 50,000,000 acres of arable and grazing land, and10,000,000 acres of forest in the State.

The Union Pacific Railway will sell at greatly reduced rates aseries of excursion tickets called "Columbia Tours," using Portlandas a central point. Stop-over privileges will be given within thelimitation of the tickets.

First Columbia Tour—Portland to "TheDalles," by rail, and return by river.

Second Columbia Tour—Portland to Astoria,Ilwaco, and Clatsop Beach, and return by river.

Third Columbia Tour—Portland to PortTownsend, Seattle, and Tacoma by boat and return.

Fourth Columbia Tour—Portland to Alaskaand return.

Fifth Columbia Tour—Portland to SanFrancisco by boat.

Is a very beautiful city of 60,000 inhabitants, and situated onthe Willamette river twelve miles from its junction with theColumbia. It is perhaps true of many of the growing cities of theWest, that they do not offer the same social advantages as theolder cities of the East. But this is principally the case as towhat may be called boom cities, where the larger part of thepopulation is of that floating class which follows in the line oftemporary growth for the purposes of speculation, and in no senseapplies to those centers of trade whose prosperity is based on thesolid foundation of legitimate business. As the metropolis of avast section of country, having broad agricultural valleys filledwith improved farms, surrounded by mountains rich in mineralwealth, and boundless forests of as fine timber as the worldproduces, the cause of Portland's growth and prosperity is thetrade which it has as the center of collection and distribution ofthis great wealth of natural resources, and it has attracted, notthe boomer and speculator, who find their profits in the wildexcitement of the boom, but the merchant, manufacturer, andinvestor, who seek the surer if slower channels of legitimatebusiness and investment. These have come from the East, most ofthem within the last few years. They came as seeking a better andwider field to engage in the same occupations they had followed intheir Eastern homes, and bringing with them all the love of politelife which they had acquired there, have established here a newsociety, equaling in all respects that which they left behind. Hereare as fine churches, as complete a system of schools, as fineresidences, as great a love of music and art, as can be found atany city of the East of equal size.

But while Portland may justly claim to be the peer of any cityof its size in the United States in all that pertains to sociallife, in the attractions of beauty of location and surroundings itstands without its peer. The work of art is but the copy of nature.What the residents of other cities see but in the copy, or musttravel half the world over to see in the original, the resident ofPortland has at his very door.

The city is situate on gently-sloping ground, with, on the oneside, the river, and on the other a range of hills, which, withineasy walking distance, rise to an elevation of a thousand feetabove the river, affording a most picturesque building site. Fromthe very streets of the thickly settled portion of the city, theCascade Mountains, with the snow-capped peaks of Hood, Adams, St.Helens, and Rainier, are in plain view. As the hills to the westare ascended the view broadens, until, from the extreme top of someof the higher points, there is, to the east, the valley stretchingaway to the Cascade Mountains, with its rivers, the Columbia andWillamette; in the foreground Portland, in the middle distanceVancouver, and, bounding the horizon, the Cascade Mountains, withtheir snow-clad peaks, and the gorge of the Columbia in plainsight, whilst away to the north the course of the Columbia may befollowed for miles. To the west, from the foot of the hills, thevalley of the Tualatin stretches away twenty odd miles to the CoastRange, which alone shuts out the view of the Pacific Ocean andbounds the horizon on the west. To the glaciers of Mt. Hood is butlittle more than a day's travel. The gorge of the Columbia, whichin many respects equals, and in others surpasses the far-famedYosemite, may be visited in the compass of a day. The UpperWillamette, within the limits of a few hours' trip, offers beautiesequaling the Rhine, whilst thirty-six hours gives the LowerColumbia, beside which the Rhine and Hudson sink intoinsignificance. In short, within a few hours' walk of the heart ofthis busy city are beauties surpassing the White Mountains orAdirondacks, and the grandeur of the Alps lies within the limits ofa day's picnicking.

There is no better guarantee of the advantageous position ofPortland than the wealth which has accumulated here in the shortperiod which has elapsed since the city first sprang intoexistence. Theory is all very well, but the actual proof is in theresult. At the taking of the census of 1880, Portland was the thirdwealthiest city in the world in proportion to population; sincethat date wealth has accumulated at an unprecedented rate, and itis probable it is to-day the wealthiest. Among all her wealthy men,not one can be singled out who did not make his money here, who didnot come here poor to grow rich.

Portland enjoys superb advantages as a starting-point fortourist travel. After the traveler has enjoyed the numerousattractions of that wealthy city, traversed its beautiful avenues,viewed a strikingly noble landscape from "The Heights," andexplored those charming environs which extend for miles up and downthe Willamette, there remains perhaps the most invigorating andhealthful trip of all—a journey either by

There must ever remain in the mind of the tourist a peculiarlydelightful recollection of a day on the majestic Columbia River,the all too short run across that glorious sheet of water, PugetSound, or the fifty hours' luxurious voyage on the Pacific Ocean,from Portland to San Francisco.

Beginning first with the Columbia River, the traveler will findsolid comfort on any one of the boats belonging to the UnionPacific Railway fleet. This River Division is separated into threesubdivisions: the Lower Columbia from Portland to Astoria, theMiddle Columbia from Portland to Cascade Locks, and the UpperColumbia from the Cascades to The Dalles.

Passengers will remember that, arriving at The Dalles, on theUnion Pacific Railway, they have the option of proceeding intoPortland either by rail or river, and their ticket is available foreither route.

The river trip will be found a very pleasant diversion after thelong railway ride, and a day's sail down the majestic Columbia is amemory-picture which lasts a life-time. It is eighty-eight miles byrail to Portland, the train skirting the river bank up to within afew miles of the city. By river, it is forty-five miles to theUpper Cascades, then a six-mile portage via narrow-gauge railway,then sixty miles by steamer again to Portland. The boat leaves TheDalles at about 7 in the morning, and reaches Portland at 6 in theevening. The accommodations on these boats are first-class in everyrespect; good table, neat staterooms, and courteous attendants.

This tour is planned for those who may wish to start fromPortland by the Union Pacific Railway. Take the evening train fromPortland to The Dalles. Arriving at The Dalles, walk down to theboat, which lies only a few yards down stream from the station.Sleep on board, so that you may be ready early in the morning forthe stately panorama of the river. Another plan is to give a day tothe interesting country in the near vicinity. The Dalles proper ofthe Columbia begin at Celilo, fourteen miles above this point, andare simply a succession of rapids, until, nearing The DallesStation, the stream for two and a half miles narrows down betweenwalls of basaltic rock 130 feet across. In the flood-tides of thespring the water in this chasm has risen 126 feet. The word"Dalles" is rather misleading. The word is French, "dalle," andmeans, variously, "a plate," "a flagstone," "a slab," alluding tothe oval or square shaped stones which abound in the river bed andthe valley above. But the early French hunters and trappers calleda chasm or a defile or gorge, "dalles," meaning in their vernacular"a trough"—and "Dalles" it has remained. There is a quaintIndian legend connected with the spot which may interest thecurious, and it runs something on this wise, Clark's Fork and theSnake river, it will be remembered, unite at Ainsworth to form theColumbia. It flows furiously for a hundred miles and more westward,and when it reaches the outlying ridges of the Cascade chain itfinds an immense low surface paved with enormous sheets of basalticrock. But here is the legend:

In the very ancient far-away times the sole and only inhabitantsof the world were fiends, and very highly uncivilized fiends atthat. The whole Northwest was then one of the centres of volcanicaction. The craters of the Cascades were fire breathers andfountains of liquid flame. It was an extremely fiendish country,and naturally the inhabitants fought like devils. Where the greatplains of the Upper Columbia now spread was a vast inland sea,which beat against a rampart of hills to the east of The Dalles.And the great weapon of the fiends in warfare was their tails,which were of prodigious size and terrible strength. Now, thewisest, strongest, and most subtle fiend of the entire crew was onefiend called the "Devil." He was a thoughtful person and viewedwith alarm the ever increasing tendency among his neighbors towardfighting and general wickedness. The whole tribe met every summerto have a tournament after their fashion, and at one of thesereunions the Devil arose and made a pacific speech. He tookoccasion to enlarge on the evils of constant warfare, and suggestedthat a general reconciliation take place and that they all live inpeace. The astonished fiends could not understand any suchunwarlike procedure from him, and with one accord,suspecting treachery, made straight at the intended reformer, who,of course, took to his heels. The fiends pressed him hard as hesped over the plains of The Dalles, and as he neared the defile hestruck a Titanic blow with his tail on the pavement—and achasm opened up through the valley, and down rushed the waters ofthe inland sea. But a battalion of the fiends still pursued him,and again he smote with his tail and more strongly, and a vastercleft went up and down the valley, and a more terrific torrentswept along. The leading fiends took the leap, but many fell intothe chasm—and still the Devil was sorely pursued. He had justtime to rap once more and with all the vigor of a despairing tail.And this time he was safe. A third crevice, twice the width of thesecond, split the rocks, riving a deeper cleft in the mountain thatheld back the inland sea, making a gorge through the majestic chainof the Cascades and opening a way for the torrent oceanward. It wasthe crack of doom for the fiends. Essaying the leap, they fell farshort of the edge, where the Devil lay panting. Down they fell andwere swept away by the flood; so the whole race of fiends perishedfrom the face of the earth. But the Devil was in sorry case. Histail was unutterably dislocated by his last blow; so, leapingacross the chasm he had made, he went home to rear his familythoughtfully. There were no more antagonists; so, perhaps, afterall, tails were useless. Every year he brought his children to TheDalles and told them the terrible history of his escape. And aftera time the fires of the Cascades burned away; the inland sea wasdrained and its bed became a fair and habitable land, and still thewaters gushed through the narrow crevices roaring seaward. But theDevil had one sorrow. All his children born before the catastrophewere crabbed, unregenerate, stiff-tailed fiends. After that eventevery new-born imp wore a flaccid, invertebrate, despondenttail—the very last insignium of ignobility. So runs thelegend of The Dalles—a shining lesson to reformers.

Leaving The Dalles in the morning, a splendid panorama begins tounfold on this lordly stream—"Achilles of rivers," asWinthrop called it. It is difficult to describe the charm of thistrip. Residents of the East pronounce it superior to the Hudson,and travelers assert there is nothing like it in the Old World. Itis simply delicious to those escaped from the heat and dust oftheir far-off homes to embark on this noble stream and steamsmoothly down past frowning headlands and "rocks with carvenimageries," bluffs lined with pine trees, vivid green, past islandsand falls, and distant views of snowy peaks. There is no trip likeit on the coast, and for a river excursion there is not its equalin the United States.

Twelve miles below "The Dalles" there is a lonely, rugged islandanchored amid stream. It is bare, save for a white monument whichrises from its rocky breast. No living thing, no vestige ofverdure, or tree, or shrub, appears. And Captain McNulty, as hestood at the wheel and steadied the "Queen," said:

"That monument? It's Victor Trevet's. Of course you never heardof him, but he was a great man, all the same, here in Oregon in theold times. Queer he was, and no mistake. Member of one of the earlylegislatures; sort of a general peacemaker; everybody went to himwith their troubles, and when he said a lawsuit didn't go, itdidn't, and he always stuck up for the Indians, and always calledhis own kind 'dirty mean whites.' I used to think that was put on,and maybe it was, but anyhow that's the way he used to talk. And ahundred times he has said to me, 'John, when I die, I want to beburied on Memaloose Isle.' That's the 'Isle of the Dead,' which wejust passed, and has been from times away back the burial place ofthe Chinook Indians. It's just full of 'em. And I says to him,'Now, Vic., it's fame your after.' 'John,' says he, 'I'll tell you:I'm not indifferent to glory; and there's many a big gun laid awayin the cemetery that people forget in a year, and his grave's nevervisited after a few turns of the wheel; but if I rest on MemalooseIsle, I'll not be forgotten while people travel this river. Andanother thing: You know, John, the dirty, mean whites stole theIndian's burial ground and built Portland there. Everyday thepapers have an account of Mr. Bigbug's proposed palace, and howIndian bones were turned up in the excavation. I won't be buriedalongside any such dirty, mean thieves. And I'll tell you further,John, that it may be if I am laid away among the Indians, when theGreat Day comes I can slip in kind of easy. They ain't going tohave any such a hard time as the dirty whites will have, and maybeI won't be noticed, and can just slide in quiet along with theircrowd.'

"And I tell you," said the honest Captain, as he swung the"Queen" around a sharp headland, and the monument and islandvanished, "he has got his wish. He don't lay among the whites, andthere isn't a day in summer when the name of Vic. Trevet ain'tmentioned, either on yon train or on a boat, just as I am tellingit to you now. When he died in San Francisco five years ago, someof his old friends had him brought back to 'The Dalles,' and onelovely Sunday (being an off day) we buried him on Memaloose Isle,and then we put up the monument. His earthly immortality is safeand sure, for that stone will stand as long as the island stays.She's eight feet square at the base, built of the native rock righton the island, then three feet of granite, then a ten-foot column.It cost us $1,500, and Vic. is bricked up in a vault underneath.Yes, sir, he's there for sure till resurrection day. Queer idea?Why, blame it all, if he thought he could get in along with theChinooks it's all right, ain't it? Don't want a man to lose anychances, do you?"

So much has been said of this mighty river that the preconceivedidea of the tourist is of a surging flood of unknown depth rushinglike a mountain torrent. The plain facts are that the LowerColumbia is rather a placid stream, with a sluggish current, andthe channel shoals up to eight feet, then falling to twelve,fifteen and seventeen feet, and suddenly dropping to 100 feet ofwater and over. In the spring months it will rise from twenty-fiveto forty feet, leaving driftwood high up among the trees on thebanks. The tide ebbs and flows at Portland from eighteen inches tothree feet, according to season, and this tidal influence is felt,in high water, as far up as the Cascades. It is fifty miles ofglorious beauty from "The Dalles" to the Cascades. Here we leavethe steamer and take a narrow-gauge railway for six miles aroundthe magnificent rapids. At the foot of the Cascades we board a twinboat, fitted up with equal taste and comfort.

Swinging once more down stream we pass hundreds of charmingspots, sixty miles of changeful beauty all the way to Portland;Multnomah Falls, a filmy veil of water falling 720 feet into abasin on the hillside and then 130 feet to the river; past therocky walls of Cape Horn, towering up a thousand feet; past thatcurious freak of nature, Rooster Rock, and the palisades; past FortVancouver, where Grant and Sheridan were once stationed, and justat sunset leaving the Columbia, which by this time has broadenedinto noble dimensions, we ascend the Willamette twelve miles toPortland. And the memory of that day's journey down the lordlyriver will remain a gracious possession for years to come.

There is a quaint Indian legendconcerning the Cascades to the effect that away back in theforgotten times there was a natural bridge across theriver—the water flowing under one arch. The Great Spirit hadmade this bridge very beautiful for his red children; it was firm,solid earth, and covered with trees and grass. The two great giantswho sat always glowering at each other from far away (Mount Adamsand Mount Hood) quarreled terribly once on a time, and the sky grewblack with their smoke and the earth trembled with their roaring.And in their rage and fury they began to throw great stones andhuge mountain boulders at one another. This great battle lasted fordays, and when the smoke and the thunderings had passed away andthe sun shone peacefully again, the people came back once more. Butthere was no bridge there. Pieces of rock made small islands abovethe lost bridge, but below that the river fretted and shouted andplunged over jagged and twisted boulders for miles down the stream,throwing the spray high in air, madly spending its strength intreacherous whirlpools and deep seductive currents—ever afterto be wrathful, complaining, dangerous. The stoutest warrior couldnot live in that terrible torrent. So the beautiful bridge waslost, destroyed in this Titan battle, but far down in the watercould be seen many of the stately trees which the Great Spiritcaused to remain there as a token of the bridge. These he turned tostone, and they are there even unto this day. The theory of thescientists, of course, runs counter to the pretty legend. Scienceusually does destroy poetry, and they tell us that a part of themountain slid into the river, thus accounting for the remnant of aforest down in the deep water. Moreover, pieces which have beenrecovered show the wood to be live timber, and not petrified, asthe poetic fiction has it. The Columbia has not changed in thecenturies, but flows in the same channel here as when in the remoteages the lava, overflowing, cut out a course and left its pathwayclear for all time. Below the lower Cascades a sea-coral formationis found, grayish in color and not very pretty, but showingconclusively its sea formation. Sandstone is also at timesuncovered, showing that this was made by sea deposit before thelava flowed down upon it. This Oregon country is said to be thelargest lava district in the world. The basaltic formations in thevolcanic lands of Sicily and Italy are famous for their richness,and Oregon holds out the same promise for agriculture. The lavaformation runs from Portland to Spokane Falls, as far north asTacoma, and south as far as Snake river—all basalticformation overlaid with an incomparably rich soil.

The trip from Portland by rail to "The Dalles," if the touristshould chance not to arrive in Portland by the Union Pacific linefrom the east, will be found charming. It is eighty-eight milesdistant. Multnomah Falls is reached in thirty-two miles;Bonneville, forty-one miles, at the foot of the Cascades; fivemiles farther is the stupendous government lock now in process ofbuilding around the rapids; Hood river, sixty-six miles, wheretourists leave for the ascent of Mount Hood. It is about fortymiles through a picturesque region to the base of the mountain.Then from Hood river, an ice-cold stream, twenty-two miles into"The Dalles," where the steamer may be taken for the return trip.In this eighty-eight miles from Portland to "The Dalles" there aretwelve miles of trestles and bridges. The railway follows theColumbia's brink the entire distance to within a few miles of thecity. The scenery is impressively grand; the bluffs, if they may beso called, are bold promontories attaining majestic heights. Onetimber shute, where the logs come whizzing into the river with thevelocity of a cannon-ball, is 3,328 feet long, and it is claimed alog makes the trip in twenty seconds.

While the Upper Columbiaabounds in scenery of wild and picturesque beauty, the tourist mustby no means neglect a trip down the lower river from Portland toAstoria and Ilwaco, and return. The facilities now offered by theUnion Pacific in its splendid fleet of steamers render this adelightful excursion. On a clear day, one may enjoy at the junctionof the Willamette with the Columbia a very wonderfulsight—five mountain peaks are on view: St. Helens, Mt.Jefferson, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. Rainier. St. Helens, queenof the Cascade Range, a fair and graceful cone. Exquisite mantlingsnows sweep along her shoulders toward the bristling pines. Not farfrom her base, the Columbia crashes through the mountains in amagnificent chasm, and Mt. Hood, the vigorous prince of the range,rises in a keen pyramid some 12,000 feet. Small villages andlanding-places line the shores, almost too numerous to mention.There are, of the more important, St. Johns, St. Helens, ColumbiaCity, Kalama, Rainier, Westport, Cathlamet, Knappa, and Astoria atthe mouth, a busy place of 6,000 people. Salmon canneries there arewithout number. It is about 98 miles by the chart from Portland toAstoria. Across the bay is the pretty town of Ilwaco. Ft. Canby andCape Disappointment look across to Ft. Stevens and Point Adams.From Astoria, one may drive eighteen miles to Clatsop Beach, famousfor its clams, crab, and trout, and Ben Holliday's hotel. But thefullest enjoyment is obtained by making a round trip, including alay-over at Ilwaco all night, and returning to Portland next day,and sleeping on board the boat. A railway runs from the town to theoutside beach, a mile and a half distant. There is a drivetwenty-five miles long up this long beach to Shoal Water Bay, whichis beautiful beyond description. This district is the great supplypoint for oysters, heavy shipments being made as far south as SanFrancisco. Sea bathing, both here and at Clatsop Beach, is veryfine.

The boats of the Union Pacific Ry. on the Columbia leave nothingto be desired. The "T.J. Potter," a magnificent side-wheel steamer,made her first trip in July, 1888. She is 235 feet long, 35 feetbeam, and 10 feet hold, with a capacity of 600 passengers. Thesaloon and state-rooms are fitted with every convenience, andhandsomely decorated. The "Potter" was built entirely in Portland,and the citizens naturally take great pride in the superb vessel.In August, 1888, this steamer made the run from her berth atPortland to the landing stage at Astoria in five hours andthirty-one minutes. Then there are two night passenger boats fromPortland down, the ""R.R. Thompson" and the "S.G. Reed," bothstern-wheelers of large size, spacious, roomy boats, well appointedin every particular. The Thompson is 215 feet long, 38 feet beam,and 1,158 tons measurement. In addition to these, there are two daymail passenger and freight boats; they handle the way traffic; thelarger boats above mentioned make the run direct from Portland toAstoria without any landings.

A mistaken idea has possessed many tourists that the Puget Soundsteamers start from Portland; they leave Tacoma for all points onthe Sound, and Tacoma is about 150 miles by rail from Portland.

One steamer sails every twelfth day from Portland toSeattle.

One steamer per month leaves Portland for Alaska, but shetouches at Port Townsend before proceeding north.

One steamship leaves Tacoma for Alaska during the season of1890, about every fifteen days, from June to September.

The Ocean steamers sail every fourth day from Portland to SanFrancisco.

There are semi-weekly boats between Portland and Corvallis, andtri-weekly between Portland and Salem.

On the Sound there are three boats each way, daily (exceptSunday), between Tacoma and Seattle; one boat each way, daily(except Sunday), between Tacoma and Victoria; one boat each way,daily (except Sunday), between Seattle and Whatcom, and one boat,daily (except Sunday), between Whatcom and Seminahmoo.

Only one class of tickets is sold on the River and Sound boats;on the Ocean steamers there are two classes: cabin and steerage.The steerage passengers on the Ocean steamers have a dining-roomseparate from the first-class passengers—on the lowerdeck—and are given abundance of wholesome food, tea andcoffee.

On River and Sound boats, a ticket does not include meals andberths, but it does on the ocean voyage, or the Alaska trip. Theusual price for meals is 50 cents, and they will be found uniformlyexcellent. Breakfast, lunch, and a 6 o'clock dinner are served.

The price of berths on these boats runs from 50 cents for asingle berth to $3 per day for the bridal chamber.

No liquors of any kind are kept on sale on any River or Soundsteamer, but a small stock of the best brands will be found on theOcean steamers.

State-rooms on the River and Sound steamers are provided withone double lower and one single upper berth.

Passengers can, if they choose, purchase the full accommodationof a state-room.

The steerage capacity of each of the three Ocean steamers is about300.

The diagram of the Ocean steamers and the night boats to Astoriacan always be found at the Union Ticket Office of the Union PacificRailway in Portland, corner First and Oak Streets.

Tourists receive more than an ordinary amount of attention onthese steamers, more than is possible to pay them on a railwaytrain. The pursers will be found polite and obliging, always readyto point out places of interest and render those little attentionswhich go so far toward making travel pleasant.

On River and Sound boats, the forward cabin is generally thesmoking-room, the cabin amidships is used for a "Social Hall," andthe "After Saloon" is always the ladies' cabin.

All Union Pacific steamers in the Ocean service are heated withsteam and lighted with electricity; all have pianos and awell-selected library. The beds on these boats are well-nighperfect, woven-wire springs and heavy mattresses. They are keptscrupulously clean—the company is noted for that—andthe steerage is as neat as the main saloon.

One hundred and fifty pounds of baggage is allowed free on boardboth boats and trains.

Boats leaving terminal points at any time between 10 p.m. and 7a.m., arrange so that passengers can go on board after 7 p.m. andretire to their state-rooms, thus enjoying an unbroken night'srest.

Sea-sickness is never met with on the Sound, and very rarely onthe voyage from Portland to San Francisco. On the Pacific, the shipis never out of sight of land, and the sea is as smooth as amill-pond.

The heaviest swell encountered is going over the Columbia RiverBar. The ocean is uniformly placid during the summer months. Thetrip, with its freedom from the dust, rush, and roar of a train,and the inexorable restraint one always feels on the cars, is adelightful one, and with larger comforts and more luxurioussurroundings, one enjoys the added pleasure of courteous andthoughtful service from the various officers of the ship.

Taking the "Columbia" as a sample of the class of steamships inthe Union Pacific fleet, we notice that she is 334 feet long, 2,200horse-power, nearly 3,000 tonnage, has 65 state-rooms, and canaccommodate 200 saloon and 200 steerage passengers. Steam heat andelectric light are used. In 1880 the first plant from Edison'sfactory was put on board the "Columbia," at that time a greatcuriosity, she being the first ship to use the incandescentlight.

Crater Lake is situate in the northwestern portion of Klamathcounty, Oregon, and is best reached by leaving the Southern PacificRailroad at Medford, which is 328 miles south of Portland, andabout ninety miles from the lake, which can be reached by a verygood wagon road. The lake is about six miles wide by seven mileslong, but it is not its size which is its beauty or its attraction.The surface of the water in the lake is 6,251 feet above the levelof the sea, and is surrounded by cliffs or walls from 1,000 to over2,000 feet in height, and which are scantily covered with timber,and which offer at but one point a way of reaching the water. Thedepth of the water is very great, and it is very transparent, andof a deep blue color. Toward the southwestern portion of the lakeis Wizard Island, 845 feet high, circular in shape, and slightlycovered with timber. In the top of this island is a depression, orcrater—the Witches' Caldron—100 feet deep, and 475 feetin diameter, which was evidently the last smoking chimney of a oncemighty volcano, and which is now covered within, as without, withvolcanic rocks. North of this island, and on the west side of thelake, is Llao Rock, reaching to a height of 2,000 feet above thewater, and so perpendicular that a stone may be dropped from itssummit to the waters at its base, nearly one-half mile below.

So far below the surrounding mountains is the surface of thewaters in this lake, that the mountain breezes but rarely ripplethem; and looking from the surrounding wall, the sky and cliffs areseen mirrored in the glassy surface, and it is with difficulty theeye can distinguish the line where the cliffs leave off and theirreflected counterfeits begin.

Townships 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31, in Ranges 5 and 6 east of theWillamette meridian, are asked to be set apart as the OregonNational Park. This area contains Crater Lake and its approaches.The citizens of Oregon unanimously petitioned the President for thereservation of this park, and a bill in conformity with thepetition passed the United States Senate in February, 1888.

WASHINGTON

is 340 miles long by about 240 wide. The first actual settlementby Americans was made at Tumwater in 1845. Prior to this, thecountry was known only to trappers and fur traders. Territorialgovernment was organized in 1853, and Washington was admitted as aState, November, 1889. The State is almost inexhaustibly rich incoal and lumber, and has frequently been called the "Pennsylvaniaof the Pacific Coast." The precious metals are also found inabundance in many districts. The yield of wheat is prodigious.Apples, pears, apricots, plums, prunes, peaches, cherries, grapes,and all berries flourish in the greatest profusion. Certain it isthat there is no other locality where trees bear so early andsurely as here, and where the fruit is of greater excellence, andwhere there are so few drawbacks. At the Centennial Exposition,Washington Territory fruit-tables were the wonder of visitors andan attractive feature of the grand display. This Territory carriedoff seventeen prizes in a competitive contest where thirty-threeStates were represented.

It is a pleasant journey of 150 miles through the pine forestsfrom Portland to Tacoma. Any one of the splendid steamers of theUnion Pacific may be taken for a trip to Victoria. Leaving Tacomain the morning, we sail over that noble sheet of water, PugetSound. The hills on either side are darkly green, the Soundwidening slowly as we go. Seattle is reached in three hours, a busytown of 35,000 people, full of vim, push, and energy. Twentymillion dollars' worth of property went up in flame and smoke inSeattle's great fire of June 6, 1889. The ashes were scarcely coldwhen her enthusiastic citizens began to build anew, better,stronger, and more beautiful than before. A city of brick, stone,and iron has arisen, monumental evidence of the energy, pluck, andperseverance of the people, and of their fervent faith in thefuture of Seattle. Then Port Townsend, with its beautiful harborand gently sloping bluffs, "the city of destiny," beyond all doubt,of any of the towns on the Sound. Favored by nature in many ways,Townsend has the finest roadstead and the best anchorage ground inthese waters, and this must tell in the end, when advantages forsea trade are considered. Victoria, B.C., is reached in theevening, and we sleep that night in Her Majesty's dominions. Thenext day may be spent very pleasantly in driving and walking aboutthe city, a handsome town of 14,000 people.

A thorough system of macadamized roads radiates from Victoria,furnishing about 100 miles of beautiful drives. Many of thesedrives are lined with very handsome suburban residences, surroundedwith lawns and parks. Esquimalt, near Victoria, has a fine harbor.This is the British naval station where several iron-clads areusually stationed. There is also an extensive dry-dock, hewn out ofthe solid rock, capacious enough to receive large vessels.

In the evening after dinner, one can return to the steamer andtake possession of a stateroom, for the boat leaves at four in themorning. When breakfast time comes we are well on our return trip,and moving past Port Townsend again. The majestic straits of Fuca,through which we have passed, are well worth a visit; it is a tasteof being at sea without any discomfort, for the water is without aripple. As we steam homeward there is a vision which has beendescribed for all time by a master hand. "One becomes aware of avast, white shadow in the water. It is a giant mountain dome ofsnow in the depths of tranquil blue. The smoky haze of an OregonAugust hid all the length of its lesser ridges and left this mightysummit based upon uplifting dimness. Only its splendid snows werevisible high in the unearthly regions of clear, noonday sky. Kinglyand alone stood this majesty without any visible comrade, thoughfar to the north and south there were isolated sovereigns. Thisregal gem the Christians have dubbed Mount Rainier, but moremelodious is its Indian name, 'Tacoma.'"

Theodore Winthrop, in his own brilliant way, tells a quaintlegend of Tacoma, as related to him by a frowsy Siwash atNisqually. "Tamanous," among the native Indians of this section, isa vague and half-personified type of the unknown and mysteriousforces of Nature. There is the one all-pervading Tamanous, butthere are a thousand emanations, each one a tamanous with a small"t." Each Indian has his special tamanous, who thus becomes "theguide, philosopher, and friend" of every Siwash. The tamanous, ortotem, types himself as a salmon, a beaver, an elk, a canoe, afir-tree, and so on indefinitely. In some of its features thislegend resembles strongly the immortal story of Rip Van Winkle; itmay prove interesting as a study in folk-lore.

"Avarice, O, Boston tyee!" quoth the Siwash, studying me withdusky eyes, "is a mighty passion. Know you that our firstcirculating medium was shells, a small perforated shell not unlikea very opaque quill toothpick, tapering from the middle, and cutsquare at both ends. We string it in many strands and hang itaround the neck of one we love—namely, each man his own neck.And with this we buy what our hearts desire. Hiaqua, we call it,and he who has most hiaqua is wisest and best of all the dwellerson the Sound.

"Now, in old times there dwelt here an old man, a mighty hunterand fisherman. And he worshipped hiaqua. And always this old manthought deeply and communed with his wisdom, and while he waitedfor elk or salmon he took advice within himself from hisdemon—he talked with tamanous. And always his question was,'How may I put hiaqua in my purse?' But never had Tamanous revealedto him the secret. There loomed Tacoma, so white and glitteringthat it seemed to stare at him very terribly and mockingly, and toknow of his shameful avarice, and how it led him to take fromstarving women their cherished lip and nose jewels of hiaqua, andgive them in return tough scraps of dried elk-meat and salmon. Hisown peculiar tamanous was the elk. One day he was hunting on thesides of Tacoma, and in that serene silence his tamanous began totalk to his soul. 'Listen!' said tamanous—and then the greatsecret of untold wealth was revealed to him. He went home and madehis preparations, told his old, ill-treated squaw he was going fora long hunt, and started off at eventide. The next night he campedjust below the snows of Tacoma, but sunrise and he struck thesummit together, for there, tamanous had revealed to him, washiaqua—hiaqua that should make him the greatest and richestof his tribe. He looked down and saw a hollow covered with snow,save at the centre, where a black lake lay deep in a well of purplerock, and at one end of the lake were three large stones ormonuments. Down into the crater sprang the miser, and the morningsunshine followed him. He found the first stone shaped like asalmon head; the second like a kamas root, and the third, to hisgreat joy, was the carven image of an elk's head. This was his owntamanous, and right joyous was he at the omen, so taking hiselk-horn pick he began to dig right sturdily at the foot of themonument. At the sound of the very first blow he made, thirteengigantic otters came out of the black lake and, sitting in acircle, watched him. And at every thirteenth blow they tapped theground with their tails in concert The miser heeded them not, butlabored lustily for hours. At last, overturning a thin scale ofrock, he found a square cavity filled to the brim with hiaqua.

"He was a millionaire.

"The otters retired to a respectful distance, recognizing him asa favorite of Tamanous.

"He reveled in the treasure, exulting. Deep as he could plungehis arm, there was still more hiaqua below. It was strung upon elksinews, fifty shells on a string. But he saw the noon was passed,so he prepared to depart. He loaded himself with countless stringsof hiaqua, by fifties and hundreds, so that he could scarcelystagger along. Not a string did he hang on the tamanous of the elk,or the salmon, or the kamas—not one—but turned eagerlytoward his long descent. At once all the otters plunged back intothe lake and began to beat the waters with their tails; a thick,black mist began to rise threateningly. Terrible are the storms inthe mountains—and Tamanous was in this one. Instantly thefierce whirlwind overtook the miser. He was thrown down and flungover icy banks, but he clung to his precious burden. Utter nightwas around him, and in every crash and thunder of the gale was agrowing undertone which he well knew to be the voice of Tamanous.Floating upon this undertone were sharper tamanous voices, shoutingand screaming, always sneeringly, 'Ha, ha, hiaqua!—ha, ha,ha!' Whenever the miser attempted to continue his descent thewhirlwind caught him and tossed him hither and thither, flinginghim into a pinching crevice, burying him to the eyes in a snowdrift, throwing him on jagged boulders, or lacerating him on sharplava jaws. But he held fast to his hiaqua. The blackness grew everdeeper and more crowded with perdition; the din more impish,demoniac, and devilish; the laughter more appalling; and the misermore and more exhausted with vain buffeting. He at last thought topropitiate exasperated Tamanous, and threw away a string of hiaqua.But the storm was renewed blacker, louder, crueler than before.String by string he parted with his treasure, until at the last,sorely wounded, terrified, and weak, with a despairing cry, he castfrom him the last vestige of wealth, and sank down insensible.

"It seemed a long slumber to him, but at last he woke. He wasupon the very spot whence he started at morning. He felt hungry,and made a hearty breakfast of the chestnut-like bulbs of the kamasroot, and took a smoke. Reflecting on the events of yesterday, hebecame aware of an odd change in his condition. He was not bruisedand wounded, as he expected, but very stiff only, and his jointscreaked like the creak of a lazy paddle on the rim of a canoe. Hishair was matted and reached a yard down his back. 'Tamanous,'thought the old man. But chiefly he was conscious of a mentalchange. He was calm and content. Hiaqua and wealth seemed to havelost their charm for him. Tacoma, shining like gold and silver andprecious stones of gayest lustre, seemed a benign comrade andfriend. All the outer world was cheerful, and he thought he hadnever wakened to a fresher morning. He rose and started on hisdownward way, but the woods seemed strangely transformed sinceyesterday; just before sunset he came to the prairie where hislodge used to be; he saw an old squaw near the door crooning asong; she was decked with many strings of hiaqua and costly beads.It was his wife; and she told him he had been gone many, manyyears—she could not tell how many; that she had remainedfaithful and constant to him, and distracted her mind from thebitterness of sorrow by trading in kamas and magic herbs, and hadthus acquired a genteel competence. But little cared the sage forsuch things; he, was rejoiced to be at home and at peace, and nearhis own early gains of hiaqua and treasure buried in a place ofsecurity. He imparted whatever he possessed—materialtreasures or stores of wisdom and experience—freely to allthe land. Every dweller came to him for advice how to spear thesalmon, chase the elk, or propitiate Tamanous. He became the greatmedicine man of the Siwashes and a benefactor to his tribe andrace. Within a year after he came down from his long nap on theside of Tacoma, a child, my father, was born to him. The sage livedmany years, revered and beloved, and on his death-bed told thishistory to my father as a lesson and a warning. My father dying,told it to me. But I, alas! have no son; I grow old, and lest thiswisdom perish from the earth, and Tamanous be again obliged tointerpose against avarice, I tell the tale to thee, O Boston tyee.Mayst thou and thy nation not disdain this lesson of an earlierage, but profit by it and be wise!"

So far the Siwash recounted his legend without the palisades ofFort Nisqually, and motioning, in expressive pantomime, at theclose, that he was dry with big talk and would gladly "wet hiswhistle."

The town of Tacoma contains about 15,000 inhabitants, and is ina highly prosperous condition. From here one may start on the grandAlaskan tour, winding up through all the wonders of sound andstrait, bay and ocean, to the far North summerland—a trip ofmost entrancing interest. The return from Tacoma to Portland may bemade by either rail or boat.

So much has already been said in preceding pages about PugetSound that it would seem the subject might be somewhat overdone.But it still remains to be said that justice can never be done tothe scenic glories of this beautiful inland sea. The views fromdifferent points, and from almost every point on the Sound, are ofsublime grandeur. On the east are the Cascade Mountains, rangingfrom 5,000 to 14,444 feet in height, Mount Rainier for Tacoma, (asit is also called) being of the latter altitude, and only third inheight of the mountains of the United States. On the west are theOlympic Mountains, the highest peaks of which reach up to 8,000feet. Both ranges, brilliantly snow-crowned, are within view at thesame time from various points, and the scenery in its entirety,with its continual changefulness and features of sublimity, can notbe excelled. Strangers and travelers who have visited every part ofthe world never leave the deck of the steamers while going throughthe waters of the Sound country. In noting a single feature, MountRainier, Senator George F. Edmunds wrote as follows: "I have beenthrough the Swiss mountains, and am compelled to own that there isno comparison between the finest effects exhibited there and whatis seen in approaching this grand and isolated mountain. I would bewilling to go 500 miles again to see that scene. The Continent isyet in ignorance of what will be one of the grandest show places,as well as sanitariums. If Switzerland is rightly called theplay-ground of Europe, I am satisfied that around the base of Mt.Rainier will become a prominent place of resort, not for Americaonly, but for the world besides, with thousands of sites forbuilding purposes that are nowhere excelled for the grandeur of theview that can be obtained from them, with topographical featuresthat would make the most perfect system of drainage both possibleand easy, and with a most agreeable and health-giving climate."

A more enthusiastic writer says: "Puget Sound scenery is thegrandest scenery in the world. One has here in combination thesublimity of Switzerland, the picturesqueness of the Rhine, therugged beauty of Norway, the breezy variety of the Thousand Islandsof the St. Lawrence, or the Hebrides of the North Sea, the soft,rich-toned skies of Italy, the pastoral landscape of England, withvelvet meadows and magnificent groves, massed with floral bloom,and the blending tints and bold color of the New England Indiansummer. Features with which nothing within the vision of anothercity can be placed in comparison are the Olympic range of mountainsin front of Seattle, and the sublime snow peaks of the Rainier,Baker, Adams, and St. Helens, with their glaciers and robes ofeternal white, and the great falls of the Snoqualmie, 280 feethigh, near by."

The geography and topography of this sheet are alone a wonderand a study. Glance upon the map. The elements of earth and waterseem to have struggled for dominion one over the other. The Straitof Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia to the south narrow intoAdmiralty Inlet; the inlet penetrates the very heart of theTerritory, cutting the land into most grotesque shapes, circlingand twisting into a hundred minor inlets, into which flow a hundredrivers, fed in their turn by myriads of smaller creeks andbayous—a veritable network of lakes, streams, peninsulas, andislands which, with the mountain ranges backing the landscapes oneither hand, can not fail to be picturesque in the extreme. Here onthe placid bosom of this inland sea, the pleasure seeker can enjoyall the delights and exhilarating influences of ocean travelwithout its inconveniences. No sea sickness, no proneness toreflect on "to be or not to be," but, amid the bracing breezes, thesteady, easy glide of the commodious steamer over pleasant waters,takes him through scenes as fair as the poet's brightest dreams.This "Mediterranean of the Pacific" throughout its length andbreadth is adorned with heavily-wooded and fantastically-formedislands. The giant firs are the tallest and straightest in theworld. Here the "Great Eastern" came for her masts, and herethousands of ships obtain their spars yearly.

To repeat, the scenery is indeed something unsurpassed. A rideover these placid waters, in and out, around rocky headlands, amongwoody mountains, along beautiful beaches and graceful tongues ofvelvety meadows—all 'neath the shadows of towering, snow-cladpeaks, is a delight worth days of travel to experience. Itenraptures the artist and enthuses even ordinarily prosy folks.There is no single feature wanting to make of such places asTacoma, Seattle, and Port Townsend, the most delightful andagreeable watering places in the world. Surrounded by magnificentand picturesque scenery, with beautiful drives and lovely bays foryachting purposes, with splendid fishing and sport of everydescription to be had, with a climate that would charm amisanthrope, why should they not become the favorite resorts on theGreat West Coast? These facts led to the building of themagnificent Hotel Tacoma, at a cost of a quarter of a milliondollars. Other such caravansaries will follow, and in time PugetSound will be famous the world over for its incomparableattractions for the health and pleasure seeker.

The average traveler has but a faint idea of the wonderfulresources of this grand empire. Puget Sound has about 1,800 milesof shore line, and all along this long stretch is one vast andalmost unbroken forest of enormous trees. The forests are so vastthat, although the saw-mills have been ripping 500,000,000 feet oflumber out of them every year for the past ten years, the spacesmade by these inroads seem no more than garden patches. An officialestimate places the amount of standing timber in that area at500,000,000,000 feet, or a thousand years' supply, even at theenormous rate the timber is now being felled and sawed.

In the vicinity of Olympia, the capital of Washington, are anumber of popular resorts for sportsmen and campers—beautifullakes filled with voracious trout, and streams alive with thespeckled mountain beauties. The forests abound in bear and deer,while grouse, pheasants, quail, and water-fowl afford fine sport tothe hunter of small game.

The recent extensions of the Union Pacific System have aided inthe most important way the development of the richest and mostfertile lands of Eastern Washington. The great plains of the UpperColumbia, stretching from the river away to the far north, areincomparably rich, the soil of great depth and wondrous fertility,rainless harvests, and a luxuriance of farm and garden producewhich is almost tropical in its wealth. This favored region hasbeen for years known as the

and is reached from Portland via Pendleton, on the main line ofthe Union Pacific Ry. From Pendleton to Spokane Falls on the norththe soil is rich beyond belief; a black, loamy deposit so deep thatit seems well-nigh inexhaustible. This heavy soil predominates inthe valleys, and while the uplands are not so rich, still immensecrops of wheat are raised. For hundreds of miles on this newdivision of the Union Pacific the country is a perfect garden landof wheat and fruit, and these farms are often of mammothproportions. Here are 13,000,000 acres of land possessing all therequirements and advantages of climate and soil for the making ofone vast wheat-field. The enormous yield of 7,000,000 bushels ofwheat has been harvested in one valley.

The authentic figures of the crop yield in this splendid countryseem almost incredible. Fifty thousand bushels of wheat have beenraised on 1,000 acres of land. As low as 35 bushels and as high as74¼ bushels of wheat to the acre have been harvested in thissection. The average covered seems to be from 47 to 55 bushels peracre, and no fertilizers of any sort being required. The berry inits full maturity is very solid, weighing from 65 to 69 pounds perbushel, this being from five to nine pounds over standard weight.While wheat is the staple product, oats are also grown, the yieldbeing very heavy. Rye, barley, and flax are also successfullycultivated. Clover, bunch-grass, and alfalfa grow finely.

In the growing of fruits and vegetables this grand empire ofEastern Washington is quite unsurpassed. At one of the recentagricultural fairs a farmer exhibited 109 varieties of fruits,vegetables, and cereals. These included the best qualities ofYellow Nansemond sweet potatoes, mammoth melons of all varieties,eggplant, sorghum and syrup cane, broom-corn, tobacco, grapes,cotton, peanuts, and many other things, some of which do not attainto so high a degree of excellence elsewhere farther north than theCarolinas. Peaches, apples, and prunes of superior qualitydelighted the eye. Peaches had been marketed continuously, from,the same orchards, from the 15th of July to the 15th of October.There were hanging in the pavilion diplomas awarded at the NewOrleans Exposition to citizens in this valley for exhibits of thebest qualities and greatest varieties of corn, wheat, oats, barley,and hops.

The advantage to the farmer of rainless harvesting months isobvious. The wheat is all harvested by headers, leaving the strawon the ground for its enrichment. Thus binding, hauling, andsacking are largely dispensed with. The grain, when threshed, ispiled on the ground in jute sacks, saving the expense of granariesand hauling to and from them. These jute sacks cost for each bushelof grain about 3 cents, which is far less than farmers elsewhereare subjected to in hauling their grain to and from granaries andthrough a system of elevators until it reaches shipboard.

Here, as well as in Western Washington, most vegetables grow toan enormous size, and are of superior quality when compared withthe same varieties grown in the East. Those kinds that require muchheat, as melons, tobacco, peppers, egg-plants, etc., grow to greatperfection. The root crops—beets, carrots, parsnips,potatoes, turnips, etc.—yield prodigiously on the fertilebottom-land soils, without much care besides ordinary cultivation.The table beet soon gets too large for the dinner-pot. It isnothing unusual for a garden beet to weigh ten pounds, and theyoften grow to eighteen or twenty pounds' weight. Mangel wurzel, thestock beet, sometimes grows to forty and fifty pounds' weight, ifgiven room and proper cultivation. They may easily be made toproduce twenty-five tons per acre on good soil. All othervegetables, such as parsnips, carrots, peas, beans, tomatoes,onions, cabbages, celery, and cauliflower, are perfectly at home onevery farm of Eastern Washington. Market gardening is becomingquite an important pursuit, and holds out particularly highinducements to the farmer, because of the superb market nowafforded by the non-producing mineral and timber regions, easilyaccessible in this and adjacent Territories.

There are over 2,000 square miles of arable land in thismagnificent region, and there has never been a crop failure sinceits settlement. Outside of Government lands prices range at from $4to $10 per acre for unimproved, and from $12 to $20 for improvedlands.

Alongthe line of Union Pacific in this grand new empire will be foundmany energetic, thriving young towns, all possessing those socialand educational facilities which are now a part of every Westernvillage. Pendleton, on the main line, is a wide-awake, bustlingyoung city, situated in a fine agricultural district. Walla Walla,Athena, Weston, Waitsburg, Dayton, Pullman, Garfield, Latah, Tekoa,Colfax, Moscow, Farmington, and Rockford are all thriving towns,and are already good distributing centers. The last-named townenjoys the advantage of being in the center of a fine lumberdistrict, and within a circuit of five miles from Rockford thereare ten saw-mills, besides an inexhaustible supply of mica.Crossing the border into Idaho, rich silver and lead mines arefound along the Coeur d'Alene River.

Rockford is twenty-four miles from Spokane Falls, and has about1,000 population; its elevation is 2,440 feet. Four miles distantis the boundary of the Coeur d'Alene Reservation, a lovely tract,thirty by seventy miles in extent, embracing beautiful Coeurd'Alene Lake and the three rivers, St. Joseph, St. Marys, and Coeurd'Alene, which empty into it. There about 250 Indians on thisreservation, and they enjoy the proud distinction of being the onlytribe who refuse Government aid. They have been offered the usualrations, but preferred to remain independent. They live in houses,farm quite extensively, and use all kinds of improved farmmachinery; many of them are quite wealthy. The lake is one of theprettiest sheets of water on the continent; its waters are full ofsalmon, and in the heavy pine woods are many varieties of game,from quail to grizzly bear and elk. The town of Rockford will inthe near future assume importance as a tourist point, both from itsown healthy and picturesque location, and its nearness to Coeurd'Alene Lake. A Government Commission is now at work on asettlement with the Indians, whereby the whole or a part of thisnoble domain will be thrown open to the public. The peculiarattractions of Coeur d'Alene must in a short time render it a muchsought for resort.

is one of those miracles possible only in the alert, aggressiveWest. When Mr. Hayes was inaugurated it was a blank wilderness. Nota single civilized being lived within a hundred miles of it. Oneday in 1878 a white man came along in a "bull team," saw the wildrapids and the mighty falls of the Spokane River, reflected on thehistory of St. Paul and Minneapolis with their little Falls of St.Anthony, looked at the tide of immigration just turning toward thefarther Northwest, and concluded he would sit right down where hewas and wait for a city to grow around him. This far-sightedpioneer is still living within earshot of those rumbling falls, andthey make a cheerful music for him. The city is there with him,22,000 people, and he can draw a check to-day good for $1,000,000.For several years his eyes fell on nothing but gravel-beds andfoamy waters. Now, as he looks around, he sees mills and factories,railroad lines to the north, south, east, and west, churches,theatres, school-houses, costly dwellings and stores, pavedstreets, and all that makes living easy and comfortable. Thegreater part of this has come within his vision since 1883. Buteven then there was quite a village. After this pioneer had spent alonely year or two on his homestead, two other men came along. Theywere friends, who, upon an outing, had chanced to meet. They werecaptivated by the waterfall, and by what the pioneer told them ofthe fine fanning lands in the adjacent country, and they offeredeach to take a third of his holding. Then they began to advertise,and to place adventurous farmers on homestead claims. They werewise in their day and generation, and they worked harder to fillthe country with grain-producers than to sell real estate aroundthe falls. They soon had their reward. The merchants were quicklyprovided with store-houses, rental values were kept low, everyinducement was offered that could possibly stimulate buildingactivity, and in three years the farming country was made toperceive that Spokane was its natural point of entry and ofshipment. The turbulent waters of the Spokane River, a clear andbeautiful mountain stream, were caught above the falls, anddirected wherever the factories and mills that had been establishedabove them required their services. Four large flouring-millsquickly took advantage of the rich opportunity growing out of thisunique situation.

From two enormous agricultural areas they are enabled to drawtheir supplies of grain, flour, therefore, being manufactured forthe farmers more cheaply at Spokane: than anywhere else. Thiscirc*mstance alone exercised a large influence in giving the newtown a hold upon the country districts. These constitute more thana region—they are really a grand division of the State, andform what is known as the Great Plain of the Columbia River.

have reached a high and profitable state of development. Thesemines extend over a comparatively limited area. They are closetogether, and their ores, producing gold, silver, and lead, are allsimilar. Their output for the last three years has been quiteremarkable, and has placed the Coeur d'Alene district among theforemost lead-producing regions in the country. Gold, associatedwith iron, and treated by the free-milling process, is largelyfound in the northern part of the district, but the greatest amountof tonnage is derived from the southern country, where the Galenasilver mines, a dozen or more in number, have been discovered. Thatminerals in large quantity existed in this country has been knownfor years. But the want of railroad facilities for a long whileprevented any serious effort to get at them. The matter oftransportation is now laid at rest, and within the last three years$1,000,000 has been spent in development. The returns have alreadymore than justified the investment.

Tributary to Spokane, and reached by the various railroads nowin operation, are five other mining districts, at Colville,Okanagan, Kootenai, Metaline, and Pend d'Oreille. They are invarious stages of development, but their wealth and availabilityhave been clearly ascertained. Spokane's population, in a degreegreater than that of most all these new cities, consists of youngmen and young women from the New England and Middle States. Theyhave enjoyed a remarkable and wholly uninterrupted period ofprosperity. Some of them have grown quickly and immensely rich fromreal estate operations, but the great majority have yet to realizeon their investments because of the large sacrifices they have madein building up the city. They are to-day in an admirable position.As they have made money they have spent it; spent it in streetrailroads, in the laying out of drives, in the building ofcomfortable houses, in the establishment of electrical plants, andin a large number of local improvements, every one of which hasborne its part in making the city attractive.

It has been well said of Spokane Falls, that "it was anotherfire-devastated city that did not seem to know it was hurt."

If Washington can stand the loss of millions of dollars in itsfour great fires of the year, at Cheney, Ellensburg, Seattle, andSpokane, it is the strongest evidence that its recuperative powershave solid backing. It does seem to stand the loss, and actuallythrive under it.

The great fire at Spokane Falls on the 4th of August, 1889,burned most of the business portion of the city. Four hundred andfifty houses of brick, stone, and wood were destroyed, entailing aloss, according to the computation of the local agent of R.G. Dun& Co., of about $4,500,000.

The insurance in the burned district amounted to $2,600,000.

No people were ever in better condition to meet disaster, andnone ever met it with braver hearts or with quicker and moreresolute determination to survive the blow.

The city was in the midst of a period of marvelous prosperity.Its population was increasing rapidly, many fine buildings were inprocess of construction, its trade was extending over a vast regionof country which was being penetrated by new railroads centeringwithin its limits, and there were flowing to it the rich fruits ofhalf a dozen prosperous mining districts.

Its working people were all employed at good wages, and moneywas abundant with all classes.

Hardly had the sun of the day following the fire risen upon thescene of smoking desolation, when preparations began forrebuilding. It was felt at once that the city would be rebuilt moresubstantially and more handsomely than before.

The rebuilding of Spokane commenced on a very extensive scale;the city will be entirely restored within twelve months, and farmore attractively than ever before. The class of buildings erectedare of a very superior character. The new Opera House has beenmodeled after the Broadway Theatre, New York; the new HotelSpokane, a structure creditable not only to the city, but to theentire Pacific Northwest; five National Bank buildings, at a costof $100,000 each; upon the burned district have arisen buildingssolid in substance, and beautiful architecturally, varying fromfive to seven stories in height, and costing all the way from$60,000 to $300,000. This sturdy young giant of the North arisesfrom her ashes stronger, more attractive, more substantial, thanbefore. And there is abundant reason for solid faith in the futureof Spokane Falls.

It is the metropolis of a region 200,000 square miles in extent,including 50,000 square miles of Washington, or all that portioneast of the Cascade Mountains, more than half of Idaho, thenorthern and eastern portions of Oregon, a large part of Montana,and as much of British Columbia as would make a State as large asNew York.

It is the distributing point for the Coeur d'Alene, theColville, the Kootenai, and the Okanagan mining districts, all ofwhich are in a prosperous condition, and all of which are yieldingrich and growing tributes of trade.

It has adjacent to it the finest wheat-growing country in theworld, producing from 30 to 60 bushels per acre.

It has adjacent to it a country equally rich in the productionof fruits and vegetables.

It has adjacent to it the finest meadow lands between theCascade and Rocky Mountains.

It has adjacent to it extensive grazing lands, on which arehundreds of thousands of cattle, sheep, and horses.

It has, adjacent to it, on Lakes Pend d'Oreille and Coeurd'Alene, inexhaustible quantities of white pine, yellow pine, cedarand tamarack, the manufacturing of which into lumber is one of theimportant industries of the city, and a source of great futureincome.

It has a power in the falls of the Spokane River second to nonein the United States, and capable of supplying construction roomand power for 300 different mills and manufactories. The entireelectric lighting plant of the city, the cable railway system, theelectric railway system, the machinery for the city water works,and all the mills and factories of the city—the amount ofwheat which was last year ground into flour exceeding 20,000tons—are now operated by the power from the falls. Onecompany alone, the Washington Water Power Company, having a capitalof $1,000,000, is now spending upward of $300,000 in theconstruction of flumes and other improvements for the accommodationof new mills and factories.

Most fortunately for the city, all the milling properties andimprovements on the falls and along the river were saved from thefire.

The city has a water-works system which cost nearly half amillion dollars, and which is capable of supplying 12,000,000gallons daily, or as much as the supply of Minneapolis when it hada population of 100,000, or as much as the present supply of Denverwith a population of 120,000, and more than the City of Portland,Oregon, with a population of 60,000.

It requires no very profound knowledge of Western geography, novery lengthy study of the State of Washington, to enable anyone tounderstand without difficulty some of the minor reasons why SpokaneFalls should become a great and important city, the metropolis of avast surrounding country. A glance at the map will show themountain range that extends up through the Idaho Panhandle, andthen along the British Columbia frontier, to the east and north ofthe city. These mountains are incalculably rich in ores of allkinds, and would amply suffice to make a Denver of Spokane Falls,even if she had no other natural resources to draw from. TheSpokane River is the outlet of Lake Coeur d'Alene, a sheet of watersixty miles by six, which is fed by the St. Joseph, St. Mary andCoeur d'Alene Rivers, and which flows through a vast plain until itempties its waters into the Columbia, the Mississippi of thePacific Coast. From its point of junction with the Spokane, theColumbia makes a big bend in its course until the Snake River isreached, when it turns once more westward, and flows on to emptyinto the Pacific Ocean. South of the city, stretching westward forsome distance from the mountains, and extending in a southerlydirection to the Clearwater and Snake Rivers, is a vast countrycomprising millions of acres, through which the Palouse River andits tributary streams meander, and which is known as the PalouseValley, a country of unlimited agricultural resources. In thecenter of all this immense territory is located Spokane Falls, likethe hub in the center of a wheel. The word immense is not usedunwittingly, for the mountains and plains and valleys make up acountry that in Europe would be called a nation, and in New Englandwould form a State. Only a far-off corner of the Union, it may seemto some readers, yet there are powerful empires which possess lessnatural resources than it can call its own. The city itself lies onboth sides of the Spokane River, at the point where that stream,separated by rocky islands into five separate channels, rushesonward and downward, at first being merely a series of rapids, andthen tumbling over the rocks in a number of beautiful and usefulwaterfalls, until the several streams unite once again for a finalplunge of sixty feet, making a fall of 157 feet in the distance ofhalf a mile. This waterfall, with its immense power, would alonemake a city; engineers have estimated its force at 90,000horse-power, and it is so distributed that it can be easilyutilized.

ALASKA.

The native islanders called the mainland "Al-ay-ek-sa," whichsignifies "great country," and the word has been corrupted into"Alaska." This immense empire, it will be remembered, was sold byRussia to the United States October 18, 1867, for $7,500,000. Thecountry was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Alaska has an areaof 578,000 square miles, and is nearly one-fifth as large as allthe other States and Territories combined. It is larger than twelveStates the size of New York.

The best time to visit Alaska is from May to September. Thelatter month is usually lovely, and the sea beautifully smooth, butthe days begin to grow short. The trip occupies about twenty-fivedays.

As the rainfall in Alaska is usually very large, it naturallyfollows that an umbrella is a convenient companion. A gossamer fora lady and a mackintosh for a gentleman, and heavy shoes, andcoarse, warm and comfortable clothing for both should beprovided.

There are no "Palace" hotels in Alaska. One will have no desireto remain over there a trip. The tourist goes necessarily when andwhere the steamer goes, will have an opportunity to see all thereis of note or worth seeing in Southeastern Alaska. The steamersometimes goes north as far as Chilcat, say up to about the 58thdegree of north latitude. The pleasure is not so much in thestopping as in the going. One is constantly passing through newchannels, past new islands, opening up new points of interest,until finally a surfeit of the grand and magnificent in nature isreached.

A correspondent of a western journal signing himself "Emerald"has written a description of this Alaskan tour in September, 1888.It is so charmingly done, so fresh, so vivid, and so full ofinteresting detail, that it is given herewith entire:

ON STEAMSHIP "GEORGE W. ELDER,"

PUGET SOUND, September, 1888.

We have all thought we were fairly appreciative of the wealthand wonders of Uncle Sam's domain. At Niagara we have gloried inthe belief that all the cataracts of other lands were tame; but wechanged our mind when we stood on the brink of Great ShoshoneFalls. In Yellowstone the proudest thought was that all the world'sother similar wonders were commonplace; and at Yosemite'sInspiration Point the unspeakable thrill of awe and delight wasrichly heightened by the grand idea that there was no such majestyor glory beyond either sea. But after all this, we now know that ityet remains for the Alaskan trip to rightly round out one'sappreciation and admiration of the size and grandeur of our nativeland.

Some of our most delighted voyageurs are from Portland,Maine. When they had journeyed some 1,500 miles to Omaha theyimagined themselves at least half way across our continent. Then,when they had finished that magnificent stretch of some 1,700 milesmore from Omaha to Portland, Oregon, in the palace cars of theUnion Pacific, they were quite sure of it. Of course, theyconfessed a sense of mingled disappointment and eager anticipationwhen they learned that they were yet less than half way. Theylearned what is a fact—that the extreme west coast of Alaskais as far west of Sitka as Portland, Maine, is east of Portland,Oregon, and the further fact that San Francisco lacks 4,000 mile'sof being as far west as Uncle Sam's "Land's End," at extremeWestern Alaska. It is a great country; great enough to contain oneriver—the Yukon—about as large as the Mississippi, anda coast line about twice as long as all the balance of the UnitedStates. It is twelve times as large as the State of New York, withresources that astonish every visitor, and a climate not altogetherbad, as some would have it. The greatest trouble is that during theeighteen years it has been linked to our chain of Territories ithas been treated like a discarded offspring or outcast, cared formore by others than its lawful protector. But, like many a refugee,it is carving for itself a place which others will yet envy. But,to

OUR TRIP.

There are seven in our party, mainly from Chicago. After a weekof delightful mountaineering at Idaho Springs, in PlatteCañon, and other Union Pacific resorts in Colorado, weindulged in that delicious plunge at Garfield Beach, Salt Lake,and, en route to Portland over the Union Pacific Ry., quaffed thatall but nectar at Soda Springs, Idaho, and dropped off a day totake a peep, at Shoshone Falls, which, in all seriousness, haveattractions of which even our great Niagara can not boast. We foundthat glorious dash down through the palisades of the Columbia, andthe sail, through the entrancing waterways of Puget Sound, afitting prelude to our recent Alaskan journey.

The Alaskan voyage is like a continuous dream of pleasure, soplacid and quiet are the waters of the landlocked sea and soexquisitely beautiful the environment. The route keeps along theeast shore of Vancouver Island its entire length, through the Gulfof Georgia, Johnstone strait, and out into Queen Charlotte Sound,where is felt the first swell of old ocean, and our staunchsteamship "Elder" was rocked in its cradle for about four hours.Oftentimes we seemed to be bound by mountains on every side, withno hope of escape; but the faithful deck officer on watch wouldgive his orders in clear, full tones that brought the bow to somepassage leading to the great beyond. In narrow straits the steamerhad to wait for the tide; then would she weave in and out, like ashuttle in a loom, among the buoys, leaving the black ones on theleft and the red ones on the right, and ever and anon they would bein a straight line, with the wicked boulder-heads visible beneaththe surface or lifting their savage points above, compelling almosta square corner to be turned in order to avoid them. At such timesthe passengers were all on deck, listening to the captain'scommands, and watching the boat obey his bidding.

From Victoria to Tongas Narrows the distance is 638 miles, andhere was the first stop for the tourists. The event here was goingashore in rowboats, and in the rain, only to see a few dirtyIndians—a foresight of what was to follow—and asalmon-packing house not yet in working order.

From Tongas Narrows to Fort Wrangel, thousands of islands fillthe water, while the mainland is on the right and Prince of WalesIsland on the extreme left.

FORT WRANGEL.

Like all Alaska towns, it is situated at the base of lofty peaksalong the water's edge at the head of moderately pretty harbors. Itseems to be the generic home of storms, and the mountains, therocks, the buildings, and trees, and all, show the weird workingsof nature's wrath. In 1863 it was a thriving town where minersoutfitted for the mines of the Stikeen river and Cassian mines ofBritish Columbia; but that excitement has temporarily subsided, andthe $150,000 government buildings are falling in decay. The streetsare filled with debris, and everything betokens the ravages oftime. The largest and most grotesque totem poles seen on the triphere towered a height of fifty feet. Those poles represent ahistory of the family and the ancestry as far as they can trace it.If they are of the Wolf tribe a huge wolf is carved at the top ofthe pole, and then on down with various signs to the base, thegreat events of the family and the intermarriages, not forgettingto give place to the good and bad gods who assisted them. Thegenealogy of a tribe is always traced back through the mother'sside. The totem poles are sometimes very large, perhaps four feetat the base. When the carving is completed they are planted firmlyin front of the hut, there to stay until they fall away. At thelower end, some four feet from the ground, there is an opening intothe already hollowed pole, and in this are put the bones of theburned bodies of the family. It is only the wealthier families whosupport a totem pole, and no amount of money can induce an Indianto part with his family tree.

THE GRAVES

of those not having totems are found in clusters, or scatteredon the mountain sides, or anywhere convenience dictates. The bonesare put in a box with all the belongings of the deceased, and thendeposited anywhere. The natives are exceedingly superstitious andjealous in their care of the dead, and would sooner die than molestor steal from a grave. That tourists who are supposed to becivilized, refined, and Christianized should steal from them is acrime which should never be tolerated, as it was among thepassengers of our steamer.

JUNEAU—THE TREADWELL MINE.

After leaving Wrangel the steamer anchored off Salmon Bay tolighter eighty tons of salt for fishermen, then on to Juneau andDouglas Islands. Here was the same general appearance of location,the gigantic background of densely wooded mountains, thetide-washed streets, on broken slopes, the dirty native women withtheir wares for sale, with prices advanced 200 per cent, since thesteamer whistled, and behind them their stern male companions,goading them on to make their sales, and stealthily kicking them intheir crouched positions if they came down on their prices to aneager but economical tourist.

Juneau is the only town of any importance on the mainland. Ithas arisen to that dignity through the quality of its mines, and itis now the mining centre of Alaska. Here we found Edward I.Parsons, of San Francisco, erecting an endless-rope tramway forconducting ores to a ten-stamp mill now under construction. Mr.Parsons has had large experience in this line, and his tales of"Tramway Life" in Mexico are intensely thrilling and full ofinterest. It is to be hoped that the good people of Juneau will seeto it that he does not have to eat the native dishes, as he did inthe land of the greasers. The festive dog is all right in hisplace, but rather revolting to an epicure.

The famous Treadwell gold mine lies across the bay, on DouglasIsland. It is noted, not so much for its richness per ton, but forits vast extent. The 120-stamp mill makes such a deafening noisethat there is no fear that the curious minded will causeemployés to waste any time answering questions, for nothingcan be heard but the rise and fall of the great crushers and thecrunching of the ores. The ore is so plentiful that an addition of120 stamps is being added to the present capacity. The hole blastedby the miners looks like the crater of a huge volcano without thecircling top, and sloping down to an apex from which is the tunnelto the mill. The Treadwell yields about $200,000 per month, andwill double that when the mill is completed.

There are many pleasant homes in Juneau, and some of its societypeople are charming indeed. The business houses carry some largestocks of goods, and outfitting for the interior mines in the Yukoncountry is all done at this place. There are two weekly papers, onethe Mining Record, an eight-page, bright, newsy paper whichdeserves a liberal support.

One of the most novel and grotesque features of the entire tripwas a dance given by the Indians at

A "POTLATCH,"

a term applied to any assemblage of good cheer, although in itsprimary sense it means a gift. A potlatch is given at the outset,or during the progress of some important event, such as thebuilding of a new house, confirming of a sub-chief, or celebratingany good fortune, either of peace or war. In this instance, asub-chief was building a new house, and the frame work was inclosedin rough boards with no floor laid. There is never but one entranceto an Indian hut. This is in front, and elevated several feet fromthe ground, so that you must go down from the door-sill inside aswell as out. No windows were yet in the building, and it was reallyin a crude state. These grand festivities last five days, and thiswas the second day of merry-making.

There are two tribes at Juneau, located at each extreme of thetown. The water was black with canoes coming to the feast anddance, bringing gifts to the tyhee, who, in return, gives themgifts according to their wealth, and a feast of boiled rice andraisins and dog-meat. The richest men of the tribe dressed, in therear of the building, in the wildest and most fantastic garbs, somein skins of wild animals. There was a full panoply of blankets,feathers, guns, swords, knives, and, as a last resort, an old broomwas covered with a scarlet case. Jingling pendant horns added totheir usual order, and the savage faces were painted with red andblack in hideous lines. Anything their minds could shape was riggedfor a head-dress, and finally, when all was ready, they ran withfiendish yells toward the beach, some twenty yards, and therebehind a canvas facing the water they began their strangedance.

Only one squaw was with them, and she was the wife of the tyhee(chief) giving the feast. The medicine man had a large bird withwhite breast, called the loon. While dancing he picked the whitefeathers and scattered them on the heads of the others. The othersquaws were sitting on the ground in long rows in front of thecanoes reaching to the water's edge, about 200 feet below.

Their music was a wild shout or croon by all the tribe, and thedancing is a movement in any irregular way, or a swaying motiongiven to the time given by the voices, and they only advanced a fewinches in an hour's time.

The tribe approaching in canoes had their representative mendressed in the same styles, only gayer, if possible. When thecanoes glided onto the beach, four abreast, it was the signal todrop the canvas hiding the host and party, and advance a littledistance to meet them. Then they broke ranks and made way for thevisitors to approach the house with their gifts of blankets orother valuables for the tyhee. Most of the Indians convert theirriches into blankets. These nations, seen by the tourist in anordinary trip to Alaska, seem very much the same in all pointsvisited. None of them are poor, all have some money, and manyhave

WEALTH COUNTED BY THOUSANDS.

To be sure, some of them are in a measure Christianized, but theodors arising from the homes of the best of them are such as acivilized nose never scented before. Rancid grease, dried fish,pelts, decaying animals, and human filth made the strongest perfumeknown to the commercial or social world.

The squaws, if they were in mourning or in love, would havetheir faces painted black with oil and tar. Then again, a greatmany wear a wooden or ivory pin thrust through the lip just belowthe fleshy part. It is worn for ornament, the same as ear-rings ornose-rings, and is called a labret. The missionary work done amongthem is a commendable one, but it seems a hopeless task. Theirhouses are always built with one object in view, to be able to tiethe canoe to the front door. A long row of huts just abovehigh-tide line can always be safely called a rancherie in thatcountry. Their food is brought by the tide to their very doors, andthe timbered mountains abound in wild game, and offer ample fuelfor the cutting.

Chilcot, or Pyramid Harbor, is about twelve hours run fromJuneau, and it is here the famous Chilcot blanket is made from thegoat's wool, woven by hand, and dyed by native dyes, and workedfrom grotesque patterns. Here, also, are two of the largest salmoncanneries in Alaska, and here, indeed, were we in the

LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

The hours passed quickly by as the supposed night wore away. Atmidnight the twilight was so bright that one could read a newspapereasily. Then the moon shone in the clear sky with all regalsplendor until 3.30 in the morning, when old Sol again put in hisclaims for admission. He lifted his golden head above the snowypeaks, and spirited away the uncertain light of unfolding dawn bydrawing the curtains of the purpling east, and sending floods ofradiance upon the entire world. It was a sight never to beforgotten, if seen but once in a lifetime.

Onward once again when the tide was in, and our next awakeningwas on the grand glacier fields. The greatest sight of the entiretrip, or of any other in America, now opened out before many eagereyes. For several days, icebergs had been seen sailing along on thesmooth surface from the great glaciers, and speeding to thesouthern seas like phantom ships. As the ship neared the bay, thesehuge bergs increased in size and number, with such grotesque andweird shapes, that the mind is absorbed in shaping turrets, ghosts,goblins, and the like, each moment developing more and more ofthings unearthly, until the heart and eyes seem bursting with thestrain, when suddenly a great roar, like the shock of an explosionof giant powder, turns the eyes to the parent glacier to see thebirth of these unnatural forms. They break from the icy wall with astupendous crash, and fall into the water with such force as tosend our great ship careening on her side when the swell from thedisturbed waters strikes her.

The Muir glacier is the one that occupies the most attention, asit is the most accessible to tourists. It rises to a perpendicularheight of 350 feet, and stretches across the entire head of theGlacier Bay, which is estimated from three to five miles in width.The Muir and Davidson glaciers are two arms of that great Ice fieldextending more than 400 miles in length, covering more area

THAN ALL SWITZERLAND,

and any one of the fifteen subdivisions of the glacial stream isas large as the Great Rhone glacier.

Underlying this great ice field is that glacial river whichbears these mountains of ice on its bosom to the ocean. With a roarlike distant artillery, or an approaching thunder-storm, theadvancing walls of this great monster split and fall into thewatery deep, which has been sounded to a depth of some 800 feetwithout finding anchor.

The glacial wall is a rugged, uneven mass, with clefts andcrevices, towering pinnacles and domes, higher than Bunker Hillmonument, cutting the air at all angles, and with a stupendouscrash sections break off from any portion without warning and sinkfar out of sight. Scarcely two minutes elapse without a portionfalling from some quarter. The marble whiteness of the face isrelieved by lines of intense blue, a characteristic peculiar to thesmall portions as well as the great.

Going ashore in little rowboats, the vast area along the sandybeach was first explored, and it was, indeed, like a fairy land.There were acres of grottoes, whose honey-combed walls were mostdelicately carved by the soft winds and the sunlight reflectionsaround and in the arches of ice, such as are never seen except inwater, ice, and sky.

MOUNTAINS OF ICE,

remnants of glaciers, along the beach, stood poised on onepoint, or perchance on two points, and arched between. Theseicebergs were dotted with stones imbedded; great bowls were meltedout and filled with water, and little cups made of ice would affordyou a drink of fresh water on the shore of this salt sea.

At five o'clock in the morning, with the sun kissing the coldmajestic glacier into a glad awakening from its icy sleep, theascent was begun. Too eager to be among the first to see the top,many started without breakfast, while others chose the wiser part,and waited to be physically fortified.

The ascent is not so difficult as it is dangerous. There is notrail and no guide, and many a step had to be retraced to getacross or around some bottomless fissure. For some distance theground seemed quite solid. Soon it was discovered that there wasbut a thin covering of dirt on the solid ice below; but anon instriking the ground with the end of an alpine stick it would proveto be but an inch of ice and dirt mixed, and a dark abyss belowwhich we could not fathom. It is to be hoped, for the good offuture tourists, that there are not many such places, or that theymay soon be exposed so they can be avoided. Reaching the top aftera tedious and slippery climb, there was a long view of icy billows,as if the sea had suddenly congealed amid a wild tempestuous storm.Deep chasms obstructed the way on all sides, and a misstep or slipwould send one down the blue steps where no friendly rope couldrescue, and only the rushing water could be heard. To view thesolid phalanxes of icy floes, as they fill the mountain fastnessesand imperceptibly march through the ravines and force their way tothe sea, fills one with awe indescribable. The knowledge that theice is moving from beneath one's feet thrills one with a curioussensation hard to portray.

Below, it seems like the constant wooing of the sea that winsthe offering from this wealth of purity, instead of the voluntaryact of this giant of the Arctic zone.

For twenty-four hours the awful grandeur of these scenes wasgloried in, when Captain Hunter gave the order to draw the anchorand steam away. The whistles call the passengers back to thesteamer, where they were soon comparing specimens, viewinginstantaneous photographs, hiding bedraggled clothing, casting awaytattered mufflers, and telling of hair-breadth escapes from periland death. Many a tired head sought an early pillow, and floatedaway in dreams of ghoulish icebergs, until the call for breakfastdisclosed to opening eyes that the boat was anchored in the

BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF SITKA.

The steamer's whistle is the signal for a holiday in all Alaskaports, and Sitka is no exception to the rule. Six o'clock in themorning, but the sleepy town had awakened to the fact of ourarrival, and the inhabitants were out in force to greet friends orsell their canoes.

There are some 1,500 people living in Sitka, including allraces. The harbor is the most beautiful a fertile brain canimagine. Exquisitely moulded islands are scattered about in themost enchanting way, all shapes and sizes, with now and then alittle garden patch, and ever verdant with native woods and grassesand charming rockeries. As far out as the eye can reach thebeautiful isles break the cold sea into bewitching inlets and lurethe mariner to shelter from evil outside waves.

The village nestles between giant mountains on a lowland curvesurrounded by verdure too dense to be penetrated with the eye, andtoo far to try to walk—which is a good excuse for tired feet.The first prominent feature to meet the eye on land is a largesquare house, two stories high, located on a rocky eminence nearthe shore, and overlooking the entire town and harbor. Once it wasa model dwelling of much pretension, with its spacious apartments,hard-wood six-inch plank floors, elaborately-carved decorations,stained-glass windows, and its amusem*nt and refreshment halls. Allbetoken the former elegance of the Russian governor's home, whichwas supported with such pride and magnificence as will never beseen there again. The walls are crumbling, the windows broken, andthe old oaken stairways will soon be sinking to earth again, andits only life will be on the page of history.

The mission-school hospital, chapel, and architectural buildingsoccupied much of the tourists' time, and some were deeplyinterested. There are eighteen missionaries in Sitka, under thePresbyterian jurisdiction, trying to educate and Christianize theIndians. They are doing a noble work, but it does seem a hopelesstask when one goes among the Indian homes, sees the filth, smellsthe vile odors, and studies the native habits.

These Indians, like the other tribes, are not poor, but all havemore or less money.

MANY ARE RICH,

having more than $20,000 in good hard cash, yet the squalor inwhich they live would indicate the direst poverty.

The stroll to Indian river, from which the town gets its watersupply, is bewitching. The walk is made about six feet through anevergreen forest, the trees arching overhead, for a distance of twomiles, and is close to the bay, and following the curve in a mostpicturesque circle. The water is carried in buckets loaded on cartsand wheeled by hand, for horses are almost unknown in Alaska. Thereare probably not more than half a dozen horses and mules in allAlaska—not so much because of the expense of transportationand board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and months ofwinter, when people do not go out but very little. All the packingis done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs andsupplies on their backs.

Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, locatedin the middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street.Its form is that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome,surmounted by a chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold andrare paintings, gold embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaintcandelabra of solid silver are suspended in many nooks, and an airof sacred quiet pervades the whole building. There were no seats,for the Russians remain standing during the worship. Service isheld every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his native language, andthe church is still supported by the Russian Government. Indeed,Russia does more for the advancement of religion than does our ownGovernment for Alaska.

The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of theother towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible,than the other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall,large boned, and stout.

Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with thesepeople. Then the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like ahuge sea serpent moved among the green isles, and followed us oncemore—now on the homeward sail.

But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, andthat was at

KILLISNOO.

When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, thecity policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut.Of course, he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Overhis door was the following:

"By the Governor's commission,
And the company's permission,
I am made the grand tyhee
Of this entire illahee.

"Prominent in song and story,
I've attained the top of glory.
As Saginaw I am known to fame,
Jake is but my common name."

The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been whenhe and his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffson his wife and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitkato be released. He appears in at least a dozen different suitswhile the steamer is in port, and stands ready to be photographedevery time.

Killisnoo used to be a point where 100,000 barrels of herringoil were put up annually. The industry is now increasingagain.

NATURAL WEALTH.

And this reminds me that I am almost neglecting a reference toAlaska's vast resources in forests, metals, furs, and fish. Thereare 300,000,000 of acres densely wooded with spruce, red and yellowcedar, Oregon pine, hemlock, fir, and other useful varieties oftimber. Canoes are made from single trees, sixty feet long, witheight-feet beams.

Gold, silver, lead, iron, coal, and copper are encountered invarious localities. Though but little prospected or developed,Alaska is now yielding gold at the rate of about $2,000,000 peryear. There is a respectable area of island and mainland countrywell adapted to stock-raising, and the production of many cerealsand vegetables. The climate of much of the coast country is milderthan that of Colorado, and stock can feed on the pastures the yearround.

But, if Alaska had no mines, forests, or agriculture, its sealand salmon fisheries would remain alone an immense commercialproperty. The salmon are found in almost any part of these northernwaters where fresh water comes in, as they always seek thosestreams in the spawning season. There are different varieties thatcome at stated periods and are caught in fabulous numbers,sometimes running solid ten feet deep, and often retarding steamerswhen a school of them is overtaken. At Idaho Inlet Mr. Van Gaskenbrought up a seine for the Ancon tourists containing 350 salmon forpacking. At nearly every port the steamer landed there was eitherone or more canning or salt-packing establishments for salmon. Ofthese, 11,500,000 pounds were marketed last year.

Besides the salmon there is the halibut, black and white cod,rock cod, herring, sturgeon, and many other fish, while the watersare whipped by porpoises and whales in large numbers all along theway. Governor Swineford estimates the products of the Alaskafisheries last year at $3,000,000.

THE SEAL FISHERIES

are still 1,800 miles west of Sitka. St. Paul and St. GeorgeIslands are the best breeding places of the seals, sea lions, seaotter, and walrus. These islands are in a continuous fog in summer,and are swept by icy blasts in winter. There are many interestingfacts connected with these islands and the habits of these phocinekindred, but space is limited. Suffice that 100,000 seals arekilled each year for commercial purposes. Over 1,000,000 seal pupsare born every year, and when they leave for winter quarters theygo in families and not altogether. An average seal is about sixfeet long, but some are found eight feet long and weigh from 400 to800 pounds. The work of catching is all done between the middle ofJune and the first of August. The fur company are supposed to payour Government $2 for each pelt. These hides are at once shipped toLondon to be dyed and made ready to be put on the market in theUnited States.

In fact, Alaska seems full to overflowing with offerings toseekers of fortune or pleasure. Its coast climate is mild, with noextreme heat, because of the snow-clad peaks which temper the humidair, and never extreme cold, because of the Japan current thatbathes its mossy slopes and destroys the frigid wave before it doesits work.

Three thousand miles along this inland sea has revealed scenesof matchless grandeur—majestic mountains (think ofsnow-crowned St. Elias, rising 19,500 feet from the ocean's edge),the mightiest glaciers, world's of inimitable, indescribablesplendor. It is a trip of a lifetime. There is none other like it,and our party unanimously resolves that the tourist who fails totake it misses very much.

From Portland to San Francisco by steamer is one of the mostenjoyable trips offered the tourist in point of safety and comfort,and the service is exceptionally fine.

The steamers "Oregon," "Columbia," and "State of California" arepowerful iron steamers, built expressly for tourist travel betweenPortland and San Francisco. The traveler will find this fifty-hourocean voyage thoroughly enjoyable; the sea is uniformly smooth, nogreater motion than the long swell of the Pacific, and the boatsare models of neatness and comfort. It affords a grand opportunityto run down the California coast, always in sight of land, andderive the invigorating exhilaration of an ocean trip without anyof its discomforts. Among the many points of interest to be seenare the picturesque Columbia River Bar, the beautiful Ocean Beachat Clatsop, the towering heights of Cape Hanco*ck, the lonelyMid-Ocean Lighthouse at Tillamook Rock, the historical Rogue RiverReef, Cape Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, Point Arena, and last, but notleast, the world-renowned Golden Gate of San Francisco.

The steamships of this company are all new, modern-designed ironvessels, supplied with steam steering apparatus, electric light andbells, and all improved nautical appliances. The state-rooms,cabins, salons, etc., are elaborately furnished throughout, thewhole presenting an unrivaled scene of luxurious ocean life.

The advantages of this charming ocean trip to the tourist aremost obvious; there is the healthful air of the grand old PacificOcean, complete freedom from dust, heat, cinders, and all thediscomforts which one meets in midsummer railway travel.

The Passenger Department of the Union Pacific Railway will takepleasure in forwarding to any address, free, of charge, any of thefollowing publications, provided that with the application isenclosed the amount of postage specified below for eachpublication. All of these books and pamphlets are fresh from thepress, many of them handsomely illustrated, and accurate as regardsthe region of country described. They will be found entertainingand instructive, and invaluable as guides to and authority on thefertile tracts and landscape wonders of the great empire of theWest. There is information for the tourist, pleasure and healthseeker, the investor, the settler, the sportsman, the artist, andthe invalid.

The Western Resort Book. Send 6 cents for postage.

This is a finely illustrated book describing the vast UnionPacific system. Every health resort, mountain retreat, wateringplace, hunter's paradise, etc., etc., is depicted. This book givesa full and complete detail of all tours over the line, startingfrom Sioux City, Council Bluffs, Omaha, St. Joseph, Leavenworth, orKansas City, and contains a complete itinerary of the journey fromeither of these points to the Pacific Coast.

Sights and Scenes. Send 2 cents postage for eachpamphlet.

There are five pamphlets in this set, pocket folder size,illustrated, and are descriptive of tours to particular points. Theset comprises "Sights and Scenes in Colorado;" Utah; Idaho andMontana; California; Oregon, Washington, and Alaska. Each pamphlet,deals minutely with every resort of pleasure or health within itsassigned limit, and will be found bright and interesting readingfor tourists.

Facts and Figures. Send 2 cents postage for eachpamphlet.

This is a set of three pamphlets, containing facts and figuresrelative to Kansas, Nebraska, and Colorado respectively. They aremore particularly meant for intending settlers in these fertileStates and will be found accurate in every particular; there is adescription of all important towns.

Vest Pocket Memorandum Book. Send 2 cents forpostage.

A handy, neatly gotten-up little memorandum book, very usefulfor the farmer, business man, traveler, and tourist.

Calendar, 1890. Send 6 cents for postage.

An elegant Calendar for the year 1890, suitable for the officeand counting room.

Comprehensive Pamphlets. Send 6 cents postage for eachpamphlet.

A set of pamphlets on Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, Idaho,Oregon, and Washington. These books treat, of the resources,climate, acreage, minerals, grasses, soil, and products of thesevarious empires on an extended scale, entering very fully upon anexhaustive treatise of the capabilities and promise of the placesdescribed. They have been very carefully compiled, and theinformation collated from Official Reports, actual settlers, andresidents of the different States and Territories.

Theatrical Diary. Send 10 cents for postage.

This is a Theatrical Diary for 1890-91, bound in Turkey Morocco,gilt tops, and contains a, list of 255 theatres and opera housesreached by the Union Pacific system, seating capacity, size ofstage, terms, newspapers in each town, etc., etc. This Diary isintended only for the theatrical profession.

Commercial Salesman's Expense Book. Send 2 cents forpostage.

A neat vest pocket memorandum book for 1890—dates, cashaccounts, etc., etc.

Outdoor Sports and Pastimes. Send 2 cents forpostage.

A carefully compiled pamphlet of some thirty pages, giving thecomplete rules of this year, for Lawn Tennis, Base Ball, Croquet,Racquet, Cricket, Quoits, La Crosse, Polo, Curling, Foot Ball,etc., etc. There are also diagrams of a Lawn Tennis Court and BaseBall diamond. This pamphlet will be found especially valuable tolovers of these games.

Map of the United States. Send 25 cents for postage.

A large wall map of the United States, complete in everyparticular, and compiled from the latest surveys; just published;size, 46 x 66 inches; railways, counties, roads, etc., etc.

Stream, Sound and Sea. Send 2 cents for postage.

A neat, illustrated pamphlet descriptive of a trip from TheDalles of the Columbia to Portland, Ore., Astoria, Clatsop Beach;through the strait of Juan de Fuca and the waters of the PugetSound, and up the coast to Alaska. A handsome pamphlet containingvaluable information for the tourist.

Wonderful Story. Send 2 cents for postage.

The romance of railway building. The wonderful story of theearly surveys and the building of the Union Pacific. A paper byGeneral G.M. Dodge, read before the Society of the Army of theTennessee, September, 1888. General Sherman pronounces thisdocument fascinatingly interesting and, of great historical value,and vouches for its accuracy.

Gun Club Rules and Revised Game Laws. Send 2 cents forpostage.

This valuable publication is a digest of the laws relating togame in all the Western States and Territories. It also containsthe various gun club rules, together with a guide to all Westernlocalities where game of whatsoever description may be found. Everysportsman should have one.

"The Oldest Inhabitant." Send 10 cents for postage.

This is a buffalo head in Sepia, a very artistic study fromlife. It is characterized by strong drawing and wonderful fidelity.A very handsome acquisition for parlor or library.

Crofutt's Overland Guide, No. 1. Send $1.00.

This book has just been issued. It graphically describes everypoint, giving its history, population, business resources, etc.,etc., on the line of the Union Pacific Hallway, between theMissouri River and the Pacific Coast, and the tourist should notstart West without a copy in his possession. It furnishes in onevolume a complete guide to the country traversed by the UnionPacific system, and can not fail to be of great assistance to thetourist in selecting his route, and obtaining complete informationabout the points to be visited.

A Glimpse of Great Salt Lake. Send 4 cents forpostage.

This is a charming description of a yachting cruise on themysterious Inland sea, beautifully illustrated with originalsketches by the well-known artist, Mr. Alfred Lambourne, of SaltLake City. This startling phenomena of sea and cloud and light andcolor are finely portrayed. This book touches a new region, avoyage on Great Salt Lake never before having been described andpictured.

General Folder. No postage required.

A carefully revised General Folder is issued regularly everymonth. This publication gives condensed through time tables;through car service; a first-class map of the United States, westof Chicago and St. Louis; important baggage and ticket regulationsof the Union Pacific Railway, thus making a valuable compendium forthe traveler and for ticket agent in selling through tickets overthe Union Pacific Railway.

The Pathfinder. No postage required.

A book of some fifty pages devoted to local time cards;containing a complete list of stations with the altitude of each;also connections with western stage lines and ocean steamships;through car service; baggage and Pullman Sleeping Car rates and theprincipal ticket regulations, which will prove of great value as aready reference for ticket agents to give passengers informationabout the local branches of the Union Pacific Railway.

Alaska Folder. No postage required.

This Folder contains a brief outline of the trip to Alaska, andalso a correct map of the Northwest Pacific Coast, from Portland toSitka, Alaska, showing the route of vessels to and from this newand almost unknown country.